Rod storage for canoe or small boat.

If you had the same problem as Meatloaf with rods in the way on a small boat (See Post) , but want to carry more than 1-2, try something like this. I'd use 6" or even 8" foam core PVC tubing cut to about 7'6" long w/ endcaps. There will be plenty of room for a few reels as the top at the reel end is cut out. You could rig up some fancy mounting brackets, or simply use an eye-bolt at each end and lash it to your boat. You could put rods or a shotgun in easy reach yet out of the way in a small boat, nor will they be sticking up hindering casting. About $20 in hadware should do the trick. You could even paint it camo for that stealthy look!

Call it the "Redneck Rod Carrier," patent pending.

RedneckAngler wrote:Call it the "Redneck Rod Carrier," patent pending.

looks good..i may try that on top of my pontoon....you sparked an idea for my...i think it's also possible to mount bracket holders going on the cross bars coming from the pontoon.i think i got a great way to mount your idea...it's a modified design of a single rod holder i have been working on....this winter is mod city brother!

i also think i will rip out the seats and pour foam.fuk it

Careful ripping out seats. They typicaly serve a structural purpose as a thwart to stiffen the hull and prevent the sides from pulling apart under load. Added safety/floatation options are canoe floatation bags (which can get pricey), or buying several panels of 3" closed cell styrofoam insulation at home depot. You can layer the panels like plywood and epoxy together then cut to shape for removeable floatation. You can also paint over the closed cell foam. I'm going to pull up the flooring of my little boat and add several inches of floatation, filling some of the gaps with the expanding foam. When I am done I should have a boat that while it may swamp, will not sink. In fact, any water that comes over the sides will only run to the bilge pumps in the rear.

I used to make floatations inserts when I had a whitewater canoe. The pieces could be inserted in modular fashion to add/remove floatation and adjust for gear.

RedneckAngler wrote:Careful ripping out seats. They typicaly serve a structural purpose as a thwart to stiffen the hull and prevent the sides from pulling apart under load. Added safety/floatation options are canoe floatation bags (which can get pricey), or buying several panels of 3" closed cell styrofoam insulation at home depot. You can layer the panels like plywood and epoxy together then cut to shape for removeable floatation. You can also paint over the closed cell foam. I'm going to pull up the flooring of my little boat and add several inches of floatation, filling some of the gaps with the expanding foam. When I am done I should have a boat that while it may swamp, will not sink. In fact, any water that comes over the sides will only run to the bilge pumps in the rear.

i only was taking the top of the seats out.and filling in the open area where there used to be regular Styrofoam.the sides of the bench would be still standing up at this point...i wonder how much weight foam would add?........

I'm using styrofoam to fill big spaces and ordering expanding foam from AeroMarine Products. Weight is minimal, but they discuss this in the Q&A section on their webpage, including how much floatation you need.